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Alain Ducasse’ Sweet Life
Alain DucasseThe chef talks to Lettie Teague about travel, Champagne and the wine he’s ‘obsessed’ with– by Lettie Teague from WSJ“There are days when I drink only water; those are the days that follow the nights when I’ve had too much wine,” chef Alain Ducasse said to me soon after we met. What kind of night was last night, I wondered. I didn’t have to wonder long. “Today is a Champagne day,” he declared.Chef Ducasse (no one calls him “Mister”) and I met for lunch at Benoit, one of 22 Ducasse restaurants around the world and one of his two in New York.
Benoit is the casual counterpart to his more formal Adour in the St. Regis Hotel, which, in turn, is nowhere near as fancy as his Michelin three-star restaurants in London, Paris and Monaco. (Although he was born in France, Chef Ducasse became a citizen of Monaco about three years ago.) Chef Ducasse had been in New York for less than 24 hours by the time of our meeting and was slated to leave again very soon. When your empire is scattered all over the world, you can’t stay in one place for very long. He estimated that he was in an airplane at least “once or twice a week” on trips to his various restaurants and hotels in London, Paris, Monaco and Las Vegas—not to mention Italy, Japan, China and the island of Mauritius off the southeast African coast.
Did he ever drink wine on airplanes? “It is the exception,” Chef Ducasse said. (Sometimes he answered my questions in English and sometimes he spoke to his communications manager Sonia Toulouse, who translated his French.) Chef Ducasse recalled drinking some Krug Champagne recently en route from London to Tokyo. “The Asian airlines have the best wine programs,” he said.Our lunch began with glasses of Paul Goerg Rosé nonvintage Champagne, a lovely wine from a cooperative of growers. Chef Ducasse is a self-declared Champagne lover and has a private-label Champagne bottled just for his restaurants. The Ducasse Champagne, a medium-bodied, fairly rich wine, is made by the large Champagne house Lanson Champagne, because they are “very consistent,” according to Chef Ducasse.
Despite his affection for Champagne, Chef Ducasse’s cellar at home in Monaco is dominated by Burgundy and Bordeaux, many of them grand crus and first growths. But the chef said he wasn’t a snob about high-status bottles; the wines simply had to be good. “It’s not a question of price,” he said. “It’s good at five euros or it’s good at 500 euros.” What was the last five-euro wine that he had actually tasted? “It was an Italian wine. I had it in Maremma in Tuscany at my country hotel,” he recalled. “It cost about 10 euros.” (I assumed he was talking about its retail price, though of course it could have been from the hotel mini bar.)
But there was no time to inquire; the sommelier was already pouring the next wine, the 2009 Domaine Guillaman. A clean, bright white blend from Gascogny, it was a perfectly serviceable aperitif and accompaniment to the mixed plate of hors d’oeuvres that included cod brandade, veal tongue and leeks in vinaigrette sauce.
But our vinous paths diverged with the arrival of the next course: steamed loup de mer for me and steak frites for Chef Ducasse. “I was in the mood for steak at the last minute,” he said when he saw me eyeing his lunch with ill-disguised envy.
We were each served two different wines: two French reds for Chef Ducasse (the 2007 Domaine de L’Aurage Côtes de Castillon and the 2009 Gouleyant Malbec from Cahors) and a California Chardonnay (2008 Robin K from the Russian River) and a Chenin Blanc from the Loire (2009 Château de la Roulerie Anjou) for me.
The fish was good but I had to admit I wasn’t enthralled by either of the white wines; the Robin K was a bit oaky, the Chenin a touch vegetal. Chef Ducasse offered me a taste of his wines. I liked his lush, ripe Cahors, though it wasn’t an ideal match with my fish. Did he think that such things mattered, or was there too much fuss made about matching wine and food?
“There are no rules,” he said. “You have to taste the wine with an open mind. You can drink red wine with lobster and white wine with lamb.” In that case, perhaps he’d like to try my slightly vegetal Anjou or the rather oaky Chardonnay with his steak? “I’m not a fan of oaky wine.” Chef Ducasse replied.
I liked his Cahors very much, on the other hand. “If the Cahors cost less than 10 euros, it was very good,” Chef Ducasse replied. “When I taste a wine I like to know how much it costs.” (The wine is in fact about $13 at retail.)
“The world of wine is more creative than the world of cooking,” Chef Ducasse observed, growing more expansive as he consumed a bit more of the Cahors. “There are so many impassioned winemakers. I think there are more impassioned winemakers than chefs.”
Who were some of the impassioned winemakers he had in mind? “Madame Bize-Leroy,” he answered decisively, naming the director of the great Bize-Leroy Burgundy domaine. “Madame Leroy was the first to make biodynamic wines in Burgundy. She is an original.” Who else? Chef Ducasse shook his head. “I don’t want to give names. Someone will call and ask, ‘Why didn’t you mention me?'”
Ten minutes—and a glass of 2009 Château Villefranche Sauternes later—Chef Ducasse admitted to having a bit of an “obsession” with Pignan, the second wine of Château Rayas, the famed Châteauneuf du Pape estate. “It’s everything I look for in a wine,” he said, seeming to forget his self-imposed restriction on naming names.
“Food and drink is a pretense to seduction,” Chef Ducasse said, waggling his eyebrows comically as we finished our first dessert—a strawberry frasier—and made our way through some profiteroles, sipping 2004 La Coume du Roy fortified wine from Maury, a French village near the Spanish border.
Suddenly the great multi-starred Michelin chef was transformed into… Maurice Chevalier. Wine—whether it costs 5 euros or 500—can do that do you.
Oenofile
Chef Ducasse travels the globe, but he’s loyal to wines from his native FrancePaul Goerg Brut Rosé Champagne, $40
While the name Paul Goerg may not be particularly well known in this country, it is more familiar in France. It’s not a single family’s Champagne house but a cooperative of growers who contribute fruit to produce quality wines—like this elegant, dry rosé—under the Goerg label.
2009 Domaine Guillaman Côtes de Gascogne, $11Southwest France is probably best known as the home of Armagnac (a favorite drink of Chef Ducasse), but plenty of well-made unfortified wines are produced there as well, including this white blend of Colombard and Ugni Blanc (the grape of Armagnac). It’s not particularly complex, but it’s refreshing, juicy and bright.
2004 La Coume du Roy Maury, $35 (500 ml)The fortified red wines of the Maury region in (yes, again) southwest France, seem to be tailor-made for chocolate. This bottling comes from Maury’s oldest producer.
2009 Georges Vigouroux Gouleyant Cahors, $13This lush, ripe, densely fruited red is made predominantly from Malbec (the balance is Merlot) in the Cahors region of southwest France. Made by Georges Vigouroux, one of the leading Cahors producers, it’s a great deal at under $15 a bottle.
2009 Chateau Villefranche Sauternes, $22 (half bottle)
The 2009 vintage was superb for both red Bordeaux and Sauternes. This modestly priced Sauternes is soft and attractive. Predominantly made from Semillon, with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, it has a pretty nose of apricot. It’s a fine companion to fruit and fruit-based desserts.
Photo credits: Jonny Valiant, and F. Martin Raminfor the The Wall Street Journal -
Luxurious Outdoor Furniture
The Spring 2011 collection from French outdoor furnishing company, Sifas, who is known for catering to the indoor-outdoor lifestyle, debut Kwadra at the ICFF, last month.
I loved the crisp and sexy geometric designs from this new collection. It is modern, light, made of lacquered aluminum and Textylene canvas. Kwadra came in a range of tables, chairs and chaises which were created beautifully – perfect for outdoor or indoor entertainment.
Their Oskar collection, on the other hand, is one of their most plush designs – yet. With padded chairs, chaises, love seats, and coordinating tables, many of the table tops and armrests are very well made and constructed by using Synteak, which is a 100% recyclable material designed by Sifas to keep the appearance and feel of teak, without the staining – ugh! (totally unavoidable when you’re having fun in the sun).
That collection is also water resistant, and environmentally sensitive.How convenient.Having evolved with architectural trends over the years, Sifas designs have inspired a blend of indoor intimacy and outdoor freedom.
Sifas was founded on the French Riviera in 1937. Their products are all about beautiful and functional designs, with a real commitment to comfort.“Sifas designers are challenged to create furniture that is comfortable and refined in both interior and exterior applications. The same furniture can be used around a swimming pool or inside a dining room.” Joost Jansen, President of Sifas USA, www.sifasusa.com -
The Weekender: Chelsea Flower Show 2011
The exuberant and foxy, Dame Helen Mirren launched a flower named in her honor during the Chelsea Flower Show Preview.Few things in life can be compare to this great event. And this year, once again, it did not disappoint. I was expecting to see more constructed boxwood garden designs like we saw a couple of years back, but having a rehash on the things past is never a good thing. Or so I’m told. The big trend was vegetable gardens, as the flower industry is still suffering from the storm of the recession. Though we’re told that things are coming up roses with some of the garden houses in England.
Wished I caught the writer of this poem, inscribed on the Cancer Research garden wall. Very touching.
Loved the hairnet decorated with those dainty little black satin bows!Queen Elizabeth II was presented with her namesake orchid by a Taiwanese team of gardeners. The orchid was the only one of its kind.It must be nice being Queen.
Most of the gardens, this year, lacked that certain modern edge of days gone by, so it was a delight to see this construction of metal veins in the British Heart Foundation garden. A sublime contrast with nature!
Few men, of a certain age, carry it off as well as Sir Paul Smith.
More modern delight – au naturel!Seeing these equisetum in the Homebase Garden made me realized how gardens do not have to be over the top in order to look sensational.
The RBG Melbourne PavilionBringing nature in is always a good idea, don’t you think?
Vegetable gardens were a big hit this year at the Chelsea Flower Show. England is blessed for having such perfect rainy days. When things blossom, they blossom very well, indeed.
The soon to be married Prince Albert of Monaco visited the Monaco Garden.How glorious is Monaco? “It’s a bore!”. Of course, this is only so if you’re Gaston Lachalle (those who’ve seen the movie know exactly what I mean).
Wearing a Black Swan inspired flower tutu this ballerina enchants all her encounters in the M&G investments garden. Although her moves were bewitching, I must say, the outfit was a bit unflattering.
Never mind Taisia Melnyk, nor the William and Catherine English Musk hybrid roses, let’s talk about that splendid hat. How divine! It brought to mind the one worn by Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady – The Ascot Scene.
The Flemings GardenIs there anything more romantic than waterlilies?Not to mention serenely dramatic?
I remembered as if it was yesterday when it was announced that Natasha Richardson died after a skiing accident in Canada.What a sad day that was!Vanessa Redgraves pictured here holds a new rose from rose specialists Harkness in loving memory of her daughter.All photos are from the Telegraphwww.telegraph.co.uk
NOTE: Please notify us directly, if you believe that certain images on this post are alleged to infringe upon the copyrights of others, according to the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). Thank you.You May Also Like
Jeff Koons Plate Launch and Signing at Bernardaud
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High Tea in Gramercy Park
Let’s talk about one of my favorite topics – English High TeaUnlike afternoon tea, high tea is not so dainty. High tea is the divider between day from night, sometimes around six in the afternoon, and not at the more idle and elegant afternoon-tea hour of four to five.
In the north of England and Scotland, high tea still reigns! In such surroundings, what you’ll find is a large table spread with a white cloth; a heavy brown Firestone teapot pouring tea strong enough to trot a mouse on.
A side of smoked ham, maybe an eggs and bacon pie; a generous wedge of cheese; a dish of tomatoes and a bunch of watercress. Let’s not forget a plate of sandwiches, hot toasted tea cakes; and appetite-cutting cakes, often baked from recipes unique to the region, full of dried fruit and oatmeal and ginger.Do not expect to find delicate pretty cakes like mille feuilles or meringues; frosted confections; creamy gateaux; little fingers crooked over teacups, silver tea pots and fine porcelain – and social chit-chat, at an English High Tea.Yes, High Tea is totally unlike what we have here in America, and what we get served at the usual posh places.
Sandwiches define the English afternoon tea: its presentation and filling; its size and shape and slenderness; whether it is with or without the crust. Tea sandwiches should know their place—that is, before the scones and well before the cake.
The British custom of thwarting late afternoon fatigue with a steaming cup of black tea, delicate sandwiches, tea cakes and biscuits dates back to Victorian times. According to lore, the Duchess of Bedford popularized the meal in Queen Victoria’s court. A simple, infallible mood-lifter, it’s easy to see why afternoon tea persists as a habit today in England and abroad in Australia and New Zealand.What we consider High Tea here in America is in fact afternoon tea. The next time you decide to stop by the Peninsula Hotel, or Lady Mendl’s for a “spot of tea”, keep in mind that at the end, you will be served with a very “high” bill, but not necessarily High Tea.
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The Girl from Ipanema
“Tall and tan and young and lovely, The girl from Ipanema goes walking, And when she passes each one she passes goes “a-a-ah!”Brazilian fashion designer Sonjja Baram will launch her Spring 2011 this coming Tuesday at the Chelsea Arts Tower, and I’m beyond excited. Summer is but a few weeks away, and it’s time to get bikini ready!Sonjja’s collection is shaping up to be a sensational look inspired by the romantic gardens of the French impressionist painter Pierre-August Renoir. With Memorial Day right around the corner, now’s the perfect time to pick your favorite beachwear style at her Fashion Show on Tuesday, May 24th. Held at the Glass House in the Chelsea Art Tower, the event starts at 7:00 PM with a cocktail reception featuring passed hors d’oeuvres and Summer drinks. RSVP at: rsvp@blablablanyc.comWhat will you see at the show?Expect to see vibrant oranges, greens, lilacs and rich browns, as well as prints inspired by Renoir’s paintings. Sonjja’s line was specially designed to fit all shapes and sizes. It has thirty looks that involve tops, bottoms, one-piece swimsuits, skirt, covers, short and long dresses. All are sold separately for easy sizing and include a unique adjustable design to fit your body comfortably.Although designed in New York, Sonjja Baram’s collection is manufactured in Brazil with a variety of handcrafted accents including colorful stones and delicate metallic bands (not heat conductive). Every stone accent piece can be customized to one’s individual style with different gems such as crystals and diamonds. This sophisticated line represents exceptional value and high quality without costing a fortune. All styles are sewn in spandex, which resists sagging and is easy to dry, so swimwear looks and fits like new, longer.
Sonjja Baram designed the right beachwear for your style – just in time for beach season! Get ready to be beautiful, attractive and fun while enjoying what the Summer season brings to life: energy, sunny days and outdoor fun.
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The Weekender: ICFF 2011
P L A Y I N G w i t h D E S I G NSustainable designs are in demand, and designers delivered. Last weekend at Jacob Javits, the design industry gathered together to preview the latest efforts from furniture makers, carpet designers, textiles and lighting designers – and then some. From the looks of things, sustainable designs did reigned supreme. I came across some strong designs from neighboring Brooklyn artists, and once again, it made me realized that when it comes to good designs, New York still has a strong ground to stand on.However, after a few short walks down the aisles, this sense of déjà vu quickly came over and I started to get bored, until I saw something that was completely refreshing! The playful designs of Austrian designer, Philipp Bruni.
Multidimensional thinking, clever ideas and a manifold background are Philipp Bruni’s keys to success. It’s evident that being a creative individual, a mechanical engineer, an economist and a craftsman at the same time is the fundamental that allows Bruni to constantly come up with strong, new ideas and further to realize them as expressive and convincing designs. Refreshing, indeed!Studio Via F. Burlamacchi 12, 20135 Milanodesign@philippbruni.com
www.philippbruni.comTo purchase the Pinocchio Billiard Edition, please contact
The Augarten Porcelain Manufactory in Vienna
www.augarten.at
The young and upcoming Austrian designer Philipp Bruni has been building his studio in the design metropolis Milan since 2006. For this year’s show, Philipp created a series of design objects called PINOCCHIO Billiard Edition. Pinocchio has a long nose. He is an adventurer. If he falls down, he immediately gets up. He is a tumbler, ladies and gentlemen. He is definitely cheeky: if he gets nudged he nudges as well. Instantly, I became drawn to his designs because of their cheerfulness. They are unpretentious and likable.
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Out On The Town
P E O P L E & P L A C E S
The Kota Ancestors Opening Reception
by Bernard Dulon at Friedman & ValloisMr Bernard Dulon is pausing in front of an extremely rare double-sided ancestor reliquary figure. It stands adjacent to two astonishing and very old male and female effigies that are completely covered in hammered metal of Bakota origin.Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Mr. Dulon has published an exhibition catalog in which he speaks of collecting and exhibiting Kota Art over the years, and he specializes in Tribal Art in Paris. The Kota Ancestors exhibition held at Friedman & Vallois will be shown in Galerie Bernard Dulon in Paris during Parcours des Mondes Gallery walk from the 6th to the 11th of September 2011 in Saint Germain des Près.
Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Kota Ndasa reliquary figure – Congo, 19th Century.Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Photo courtesy Remy Amezcua for Friedman & Vallois
Mrs. Jacqueline Trouillot Amezcua, and VSP
Mrs. Jacqueline Trouillot Amezura, Mr. Michael McConkey,Mr. Franck Hall, and and Mr. Remy AmezcuaMr. Bernard Dulon dedicates this exhibition to the memory of the anonymous artists who invented a flamboyant architectural style which still attracts and fascinates beyond geographical and cultural boundaries.
The Kota Ancestors on view now until June 11, 2011Friedman & Vallois27 East 67 StreetNew York, NY 10065Tel: 212.517.3820
www.vallois.comGeorgetti’s party at The Plaza Hotel Penthouse
Breathtaking views from the $35 million penthouse’s master bedroom
Ms. Adele Nino, and Mr. and Mrs. ArlatiArtemide’s party at the Andaz Hotel
Mr. Karim Rashid
Sous Chef, Mr. Gerard SpezioWanted Design at La Venue
photos by High End Weekly™Poetry of Time at Van Cleef & Arpels
Mr. Larry Schaffer
Mr. Bartolomeo Bellati
Master watchmaker, Mr. Jean-Marc Wiederrech -
Country Figures in the Metropolis
“There is a history in all men’s lives”William ShakespeareHenry IV, Part 2, Act 3, scene 1, line 75Starting Wednesday, May 11, until Saturday, June 11, Friedman and Vallois, an art deco gallery in the upper east side, will present one of the most comprehensive and illustrious exhibit on tribal art called The Kota Ancestors. In view of the fact that some museums and galleries in the city have all together ceased to feature African and Asian art, and instead opted for more contemporary art work (this is mainly due to the high cost incurred by most African and Asian exhibits), I can comfortably say that this display is a breath of fresh air, and it will certainly attract some of the most ardent art lovers.The Kota Ancestors Exhibition is from the private collection of Bernard Dulon, an art collector, and dealer from Paris. Dulon will be at the gallery during the opening reception on Thursday, May 12th between 4 – 8 PM.
Who were the Kota people?They were made up of numerous smaller groups of folks who practiced ancestor worship. That simple fact was the foundation of their art. Throughout eastern Gabon, this sort of thing was widely practiced, and their art forms are connected in one way or another to the veneration or storage of ancestral remains. In some respect, what makes Kota art so different is the fact that they are unique and distinctive, as they are made of reliquary figures with stylized heads covered in copper sheeting.When you visit the Friedman & Vallois gallery during the Kota Ancestors Exhibit, you will step into the world of a very old, and revered tribe of people, who were both remarkable and unique. Altogether the collection is made up of twenty pieces from the nineteenth Century culled from an esteemed private collection.
Friedman & Vallois27 East 67 Street
New York, NY 10065
212.517.3820
www.vallois.com
www.expertiseartafricain.comThis exhibit coincide with the inaugural of the Tribal Art New York/Africa Oceania Americas from Thursday, May 12 – Sunday, May 15, 2011 from 11am – 9pm. Th participating galleries are:
Tambaran Gallery: 5 East 82nd Street, NYC
Alaska on Madison: 1065 Madison Avenue, NYC
John Molloy: 49 East 78 Street, NYC
John Giltsoff at Mallett: 929 Madison Avenue, NYC
Bernard Dulon at Friedman & Vallois: 27 East 67 Street, NYC
Galerie Schoffel-Valluet: 34 East 67 Street
NASSER & Co: 34 East 67 Street, NYC
Bruce Frank Gallery: 215 West 83 Street, NYC
Pace Primitive: 32 East 57 Street, NYC
www.aoany.com
KOTA RELIQUARY FIGURE
Mahongwe people Gabon 19th century wooden frame
with copper and brass platesTribes of the Kota Obamba group would place a copper and brass plated wooden figure on top of their ossuaries which then took the generic name of mbulu ngulu (literally basket with a figure). Each piece was given its own name, thus implying an actual attempt at physical portrait.
KOTA RELIQUARY FIGURE
Obamba people Gabon 19th Century wooden frame
with copper and brass plates
KOTA RELIQUARY FIGURE
Obamba people Gabon 19th Century wooden frame
with copper and brass plates
RELIQUARY FIGURE OR MBULU NGULU
Kota-Obamba people, Gabon 19th Century wooden frame
with brass and copper -
Minimal: 21st Century Kitchens
“Clients are always enchanted by the sliding top as they step into our showrooms because they see an idea that combines beauty, comfort and creativity together with high functionality”.
Bartolomeo Bellati
Owner and Founder
MINIMAL USAThey’re sleek, functional, and a visual feast. Their “sliding top” silently slides ahead through a gently push to reveal both a singular induction stainless steel cook top and a retractable faucet. Open, the top serves as a sophisticated linear table that can be a bar, a serving or a dining space, while closed the kitchen forms a unique block. It is this captivating versatility that gives the kitchen a deeper meaning, turning it into a living space where a real spirit of conviviality arouses as a secret that the sliding top keeps under itself. In this way Minimal captures the mood and ambiance of a luxury gathering and multi-functional place.
To kick off the ICFF party route, Minimal will celebrate with a book launch party for ABITARE. Cocktails and Reception and DJ on the rooftop.
Friday, May 13th from 8:00 – 11:00pm.Minimal USA
511 West 25th Street, Suite 809
New York, New York
RSVP: gg@minimalusa.com
www.minimalusa.com
We find that clients are thrilled to work with a company that reach the highest customization in kitchen design. Minimal have literally turn the concept of kitchen into an absolute living experience using high-functional solutions that are able to contain all indispensable elements in order to enjoy cooking and gathering around the kitchen area.
Minimal USA -
Sonia Delaunay at the Cooper Hewitt
We’ve waited long enough! The Cooper Hewitt National Museum is featuring the works of Sonia Delaunay now until June 19. This is the first major exhibit of Delaunay’s works in a national museum for over 40 odd years. Yes, it’s been a long time coming. Delaunay (1885-1979) was a Jewish-French artist whose design aesthetics dwell in strong colors and geometric shapes. Along with her husband Robert Delaunay and others, she co-founded the Orphism art movement.Through her paintings, drawings, painted ceramics, neon lights, sculptures, posters, textiles and costume designs, Ms. Delaunay merged art and everyday life. The beautiful textiles that she produced through her life proved her idea that color was “the skin of the world”.Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum2 East 91st Street, 5th AvenueNew York, NY 10128
Above Photos by High End Weekly™
Sonia DelaunayNOTE: Please notify us directly, if you believe that certain images on this post are alleged to infringe upon the copyrights of others, according to the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). Thank you.
